Susanne's Crafty Corner: Cosmetics

Making your own soap, alternate method

Gel stage As you could have read on the "making your own soap" page,  this page covers an alternate method for soap making. This differs from the traditional DBHP method from the point that gelstage is reached. With the traditional approach a batch is made completely with scent color etc. With this alternate method a large batch of unscented, uncolored base soap is made by boiling it out in salt water. The base soap can be made with a 0% lye discount and any excess lye is removed when boiling the soap. This base soap can then later on be melted in a couple of smaller batches to add superfatting, color, scent and other additives. Because of the lack of superfatting this base soap would also be great to make transparant glycerin soap with but that's better to be left for another time.

Ok. Lets start where we left the traditional method: gel stage.



Scoop the soap into the salt water. Once gel stage has been reached, remove the small pan from the large pan and add a large amount of salt to the boiling water. I'm talking cups here, since too much is better then to less in this case. When the salt is completely dissolved, pour the soap into the water and let it softly boil while occasionaly stirring. This way any excess lye that may have been left in the soap is boiled out and only the pure soap remains.


The soap will form a foaming layer on top. You'll notice that a thick foam will form on the surface, this is the purified soap.


Scoop of the soap When the gel-soap is completely gone and the foam looks smooth, scoop it off into another container. Be careful to transfer as little from the water as possible since this has any remaining lye and possibly other impurities in it!




Soap in the moulds. Now the time has come to fill the moulds. You'll have to work quick since at this point the soap begins to harden up a bit faster. Fill the mold(s) and be sure to fill them completely by pressing the mixture into it. Smooth the surface and then leave the soap to harden up completely. For small molds this can be after 20 minutes, for larger it takes a bit longer. In the meanwhile you can clean up the mess you've made!


Dirty water. You see how the water is colored now? This is probably caused by the unrefined (red) palm oil used in this recipe. Excess lye  and glycerin created in the saponification process will also be in there, next to the impurities from the palm oil.


Base soap! Remove the soap from the molds carefully and cut it up in nice processable pieces. You will be able to use the soap after you've removed it from the molds, although it will harden more in the next couple of days. As you probably have noticed, the texture of this base soap is quite lumpy and we also didn't put scent in it yet. For the next steps just read on!



Milling or Rebatching

As I wrote in the beginning, this alternate method is about making a larger batch of very pure soap and using that later on to make smaller batches of the final soap. This process is called "rebatching" or "remilling".To rebatch soap you grate the soap and warm it au bain marie with a bit of milk. Not too much, just enough to let the soap dissolve a bit and make it easier to melt. If it's too thick you can always add more later on. You can also use water instead of milk, I just prefer the milk because it makes the molten soap more "liquid". I let it melt for about half an hour and stir some.

When the soap is pudding like and completely smooth without lumps you now can color it, add your fragrance or essential oils, the superfatting oil and things like bran for scrubbing.
You can even give the soap a swirl or marble effect by scooping part of the soap in another container and mixing it well with your colorant. After that you can stir the colored with the uncolored soap. 

Final note

Some may wonder about this approach so I might as well tell you how I came to think of it. You see, when I first started reading about making soap, the only method I encountered was cold process. Tried it and didn't like it. Besides that, my father - who knows quite a lot about chemistry - doubted that all the lye would be gone in the end product. He gave me an old little book from the forties which among other things describes the industrial method of soapmaking. I sort of adapted those guidelines to my own needs.

I can't really tell you which method - the traditional or the alternate - is better. I got good results with both. The alternate method is more time consuming, but also provides a "purer" soap very suitable for doing many smaller rebatches. It also gives a perfect base for making your own transparant glycerin soap. Instructions for how to do that will be put on the website as soon as I can find time to try it out myself. I guess the method is just a matter of preference, so I suggest that you just try it and find out for yourself what you like best.

Now time for some tips: You'll have to make sure that the recipe you use is correct, so always check in a lye calculator whether you've got the amounts of lye and water right. You can still screw up with the recipe which I learned the hard way! If you would to learn more about the soaps & mistakes I made, click here.

Despite the different approach this site gives a lot of nice reading on making soap yourself.

For a few ready to measure and make recipes click here.


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