Susanne's Crafty Corner: Cosmetics

Helpfull herbs & oil infusion

Adding the oil to ginger & herbs in the double boiler
Add enough oil that the herbs are just covered.

Let simmer the oil and stir once in a while.
Let it simmer on low fire for about 2 to 3 hours. Stir once in a while.

Strain the oil.
Strain the oil through some cheesecloth or a bit of kitchen paper. Squeeze the remaining oil out of the herbs.


When I was thinking about recipes for soap and cream it came to mind that it would be nice to give some special properties to it. Either as a healing or soothing component, or just to make it nicer as a special treat for yourself or somebody else. For this using herbs is really great since a lot of herbs have special properties that can be put to use.

To get the good stuff out of the herbs and into your soap or cream, you will have to make an infusion. Basically this is soaking the herb long enough in oil to transfer the goodies, then you can use the infusion to make something with. Use it to make cream or lotion or add it as superfatting to your home made soap. There are two kinds of oil infusion:

Hot oil infusion

For the hot method, let a quantity of herbs just covered with  olive, sunflower or almond oil simmer for a couple of hours in a double boiler or on very low heat. You really don't want the oil to be burned. Strain through filter paper or cloth into a clean bottle. This can be repeated with the strained oil infusion and a fresh supply of herbs to make a double or even triple strenght oil. This type of infusion is very well suited for leafy herbs, stems, bark and seeds. For pictures of making an hot oil infusion, take a look at the left.

Cold oil infusion

With the cold method the herbs are covered with the oil in a tightly closed glass jar. This jar should be placed on a sunny windowsill for abut 4 weeks and shaken once in a while. The process can be repeated with the strained oil infusion and a fresh supply of herbs to make a stronger oil. Cold infusion is generally used for the more flowery herbs.

When making cold oil infusions it is important to make sure the herbs are completely dry; when there is still some fluid left in the herbs, they can decompose spoiling your infusion and perhaps even the cream. You can use fresh herbs in hot oil infusions though. After straining the herbs from the oil you should let it rest for a while so that the oil and any water that's in there will separate. Since the oil will float on top, you can slowly pour this into another container. Just make sure you son't transfer any water with it because this will spoil the infusion.You can use herbs you find in your garden, just make sure they're indeed the herbs you think they are.

For some herbs it can be better to make an infusion in water and using this liquid in your recipe in the amount it is asked for. This you can do by pouring hot water over the herbs and letting steep for about 15 minutes, or by slowly simmering it for 30 minutes on low fire.

List of herbs

Below you will find a list of herbs you can make an infusion off. It lists what parts of the plant to use and what the special properties are when used externally. I compilled this list from information on the internet, so keep in mind that I'm no expert on this and usage is at your own risk!

Aloe
Antiparasitic, demulcent, cools irritated skin; helpful for  scabies and specifically fungal infections. Topically it is used for skin ulcers, burns, irritations, and bites. Traditional combination is with comfrey. Use the gel from the fresh leaves.
Angelica
Warming and stimulating herb, for cold types of    osteoarthritis and rheumatism. Use the root. Mix dilluted angelica and rosemary oil (10 drops of each to 25 ml carrier oil) as a massage for pain relief. Avoid when pregnant! Highly phototoxic - avoid sunlight for several hours if applied to the skin.
Arnica
Promotes healing through antibacterial action and reduction of internal blood clotting. Use the flowers, not for use on broken skin.
Bay leaf
Adstringent, anti bacteriological, soothes bruises. Use leaves.
Basil
Helps against musquitos and insect bites. Use aerial parts. Said to also help in easing sinus congestion and headaches, as well as muscular aches and pains, and menstrual cramps. Avoid using if pregnant, or subject to siezures.
Camomille Antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and antibacterial. Relaxing, use the flowers.
Cervil
Helps against eczema
Chickweed
Eases irritation, aids in lesion healing, slightly astringent, soothing, heals wounds, specifically eczema. Use the aerial parts.
Cleavers
Astringent, diuretic, cleanser; indicated for many skin conditions, specifically psoriasis. Use the whole plant. To reduce cell overproduction combine with red clover; add cleansers such as figwort or stinging nettle in 3 part cleavers to 1-2 parts other herbs.
Comfrey
Connective tissue and bone regrowth, RBC breakdown in bruising. Use the aerial parts and root. Use as a pomade in the treatment of cuts, burns, skin ulcers, varicose veins, bronchitis, rheumatism. Apply cream or oil to affected area as often as needed, not for long term usage.
Echinacea
Can be used with poisonous bites of insects and snames, gangrene, carbuncles, abcesses. Has bacteriostatic and fungistatic properties. Use the root.
Figwort
Cleanser; stimulates circulatory system, anti-inflammatory; utilized for many chronic skin conditions. Use the aerial parts. Can be combined with cleansers such as yellow dock and cleavers; with heartsease or red clover to normalize skin production. This herb is a cardiac stimulant; avoid in arrhythmias.
Guelder rose
Anti-inflammatory, effective relaxant for smooth and skeletal muscle, specifically cramp. Use the bark.
Heartsease
Diuretic, anti-inflammatory; useful for weeping eczema. Sooths skin inflammation. Use the aerial parts. Use alone externally; as additional cleansing or tonic herbs, add stinging nettle, fumitory, red clover or cleavers, avoid in high doses.
King's Clover
Anticoagulant, anti-inflammatory; rich in coumarin-like compounds, good venous tonic, specifically for Varicose Veins. Use the aerial parts. Not for use with warfarin or similar drugs, or if blood clotting is a problem.
Lavender
Relaxing, antiseptic, antibacterial, stimulates blood flow and circulation. Use the flowers. A great addition to "acne" products.
Plantain
Local soother and healer, specifically for diaper rash. Use the leaves.
Pot marigold
Sooths dry or inflamed skin, heals wounds, astringent and antifungal. Use petals.
Red clover
Diuretic and cleansing action; for many skin problems including eczema. Use the flowers and in conjunction with anti-inflammatory and cleansers such as bittersweet, cleavers and yellow dock.
Rosemary
Stimulating, helps against muscle ache.Great to use in a "wake up" product.. clean and stimulating. Good for acne and dandruff blends, as well as oily skin. Use the leaves. Avoid using if pregnant, or diagnosed with a seizure disorder or high blood pressure.
Stinging nettle
Stimulates blood circulation; astringent, tonic; useful if eczema associated with poor blood circulation. Use the aerial parts. Can be combined with cleansing herbs such as figwort, cleavers, or heartsease and red clover.
St Johns Worth
This is calming and soothing and can be used with bruising and aching muscles. use the leaves and flowers.
Thyme
Antispasmodic; encourages tissue repair through blood flow stimulation. Helps against muscle- or joint ache, stimulating, antiseptic. Use the leaves.
Wood sage
Astringent, effective wound healer, especially for slow-healing wounds. Use the aerial parts.
Yarrow
To stop bleeding, internally and externally, including wounds, sores, rashes, hemorrhoids. Used as a tonic, carminative, febrifuge, antispasmodic, astringent, hemostat. Bacteriocidal. To stimulate the mucous membranes.
Yellow dock
Bile flow stimulant, clears toxins; cleanser. Externally used to cure boils, burns, scalds, blisters, lesions, psoriasis.  Is antimicrobial. Use the root.
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